Sizes:
X-Small (Small) (Medium) (Large)
Materials:
10-15 Yards (10-13 meters) T-Shirt Yarn (WPI = 7)
D (3.25 mm) or G (4.0 mm) Hook
Yarn Needle
1 Button at 1/2” (1.3 cm) diameter
Only $3.00 for a PDF download.
Here is another lovely crochet bracelet made from T-shirt yarn. The pattern is available on Ravelry. If you need some T-Shirt yarn/tarn, head over to my tutorial on how to make some. This bracelet is written using US standards. The yarn for this bracelet is made from a T-Shirt cut into one long continuous ½” strip. Just a couple of notes about tarn; not all tarns are made equal and the type of T-Shirt you use can greatly affect the outcome of your bracelet. I originally made this using a thinner shirt that was 60% cotton and 40% synthetic. Generally, I have found that the pure cotton tarns stretch and will give you a greater quantity, but are also harder to work with. That being said, if you are using a typical, run of the mill, 100% cotton T-Shirt, go down a bracelet size and use a G hook. This may still be tough, if you go up another size hook, go down another size for the bracelet. Also, practice a bit to get the hang of the tarn if you have never used it before. Sizes: X-Small (Small) (Medium) (Large) Materials: 10-15 Yards (10-13 meters) T-Shirt Yarn (WPI = 7) D (3.25 mm) or G (4.0 mm) Hook Yarn Needle 1 Button at 1/2” (1.3 cm) diameter Only $3.00 for a PDF download. You might also like:
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Alright, as promised, here is my next post which is another t-shirt yarn bracelet, but unlike the Cluster and the Circle, this one is knit instead of crochet. However, just like the others it is a really quick project. Enjoy! This bracelet was written using US standards. The yarn for this bracelet is made from a T-Shirt cut into one long continuous ½” strip. Here is a tutorial on how to make tarn. Although this bracelet is pretty easy to knit up, working with tarn can be tricky. If you are using purchased tarn, check the width of the tarn. The original was knitted with tarn that is ½” wide. Gauge: In stockinette stitch, 2” = 9 stitches X 14 rows, however, this may vary based on the thickness of the T-Shirt you use, as well as how close you cut to ½” for your strip. Sizes: Small, approximately 6” long (Medium, approximately 7” long) (Large, approximately 8” long) Materials: * 10 - 15 Yards T-Shirt Yarn (WPI = 7) * Size 6 Needles * Yarn Needle * 1 Button at 1” diameter or 2 buttons at ½” diameter * D Hook Only $3.00 for a PDF download. Here is another quick project to add to the collection. It is a bracelet made from t shirt yarn or tarn. I have a tutorial on how to make this yarn. The pattern is for sell on Ravelry. Gauge: In single crochet, including foundation single crochet, 2” = 9 rows x 10 Stitches Sizes: The size for this bracelet is adjustable. Each circle is approximately 1” in diameter, add more for longer bracelets and less for shorter bracelets. Materials: 10 – 15 Yards T-Shirt Yarn (WPI = 7) D Hook Yarn Needle Tapestry Needle 1 Button at 1/2” diameter Only $3.00 for a PDF download. In an effort to save money, I have been looking at alternative materials to crochet and that's when I came across tarn or t-shirt yarn. The yarn for this bracelet is made from a T-Shirt cut into one long continuous ½” strip. Here is the tutorial for creating t-shirt yarn. Just a couple of notes about tarn; not all tarns are made equal (obviously) and the type of T-Shirt you use can greatly affect the outcome of your bracelet. I originally made this using a thinner shirt that was 60% cotton and 40% synthetic. Generally, I have found that the pure cotton tarns stretch and will give you a greater quantity, but are also harder to work with. That being said, if you are using a typical, run of the mill, 100% cotton T-Shirt, go down a size and use a G hook. This may still be tough, if you go up another size hook, go down another size for the bracelet. Also, practice a bit to get the hang of the tarn if you have never used it before. This pattern uses a foundation single crochet. If you are not familiar with this stitch, check out a great tutorial by future girl. Gauge: In single crochet, including foundation single crochet, 2” = 9 rows x 10 Stitches Sizes: Small, approximately 7” long (Medium, approximately 7 ½” long) (Large, approximately 8” long) Materials: 10 – 15 Yards T-Shirt Yarn (WPI = 7) D Hook Tapestry Needle 2 Buttons at 1/2” diameter Only $3.00 for a PDF download. A couple months ago I was at Hancock Fabrics and came across the cutest toile fabric in the remnant bin. I couldn't resist despite there only being 1/4 of a yard, but that lovely fabric sat for at least a month before I was able to designate a cute enough project for it. So, here you go. It is a crochet dress with a fabric skirt. Essentially, I treated this pattern like I would treat a fabric dress, so I don't have an exact pattern, but rather a method. I'm not going to lie, there is a lot of measuring and math involved, but nothing too complicated. Materials: 1 Skein Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn in Chocolate G Hook 1/4 Yard desired fabric (pre wash and iron) 3/8 Yard matching lace (pre wash and iron) Fray Check Sewing machine, thread, pins Needle for hand sewing Method: To start with, I found a crochet chart for the pretty shell stitch at My Picot and I crocheted up the whole chart to determine how wide a repeat would be. Then I measured my daughter at her waist, chest and hips and used the largest measurement as a gauge for the circumference of the bodice. Ok, at this point I have the measurement/gauge of the chart (6.5") and I have the circumference/length that I need to make the bodice so it fits (19.5"). So, to determine how many repeats to make, I divided the bodice by the stitch (19.5"/6.5"=3). I was lucky that it came out to a whole number. If yours doesn't, round up. So, the chart requires 25 chains per repeat of the whole chart and I need 3 repeats of that chart to get my desired width, which means I need 25x3=75. And there you go, that is the base, 75 chains. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but it really is easy, just take your time. (P.S. this is crocheted from the bottom up) Now it is time to consider armholes. I went back to my daughter and measured from where I wanted the bodice to end to where I wanted the armhole to start (7") and just continued in the chart pattern until I reached that point. Then, I put the two sides together to form a circle and centered them and marked where I wanted the arm holes to start and end based on the chart repeats. I continued the chart until I reached a marker and turned back. After a full vertical repeat, I continued only half of the width to create the neck hole. Then, I picked up at the next marker and continued in this fashion to create the shape in the picture. To connect the shoulders, overlap the front and back shoulder of each side then slip stitch with your hook through both layers. Weave in all loose ends. I did go back and exaggerate the shells along the bottom by basically doing the shell pattern in the chart along the bottom. To make the sleeves, I kind of winged it, but here is what I wrote down, let me know if you need clarification: SC = Single Crochet DC = Double Crochet SK = Skip STS = Stitches FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet Starting with the left sleeve, pull up a loop 4 stitches to the right of the seam, SC, 5 DC around 2 stitches to the left of the seam, SK 2 stitches to the left of the seam, SC in next 2 STS, CH 1 turn Row 1: (FPDC, DC in the same DC)4X, FPDC, SK SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 2: (FPDC, DC in the same DC, DC in next ST) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 3: (FPDC, DC in next 2 STS) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 4: (FPDC, DC in the same DC, DC in next 2 ST) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 5 &6: (FPDC, DC in next 3 STS) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 7: (FPDC, DC in the same DC, DC in next 3 ST) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 8: (FPDC, DC in next 4 STS) 4X, FPDC, SK 2 SC, SC in next 2 on the bodice, CH1, turn Row 9: SC, (SK 2 STS, 5 DC in next STS, SK 2 STS, SC in next ST) across Bind Off. Repeat for the right sleeve switching the right and left directions. Weave in ends For the buttons, SC along the side you would like to overlap. Then, determine how many you would like (I did 5) then divide the length of the side by that number. Place markers on the overlapping side at the length you just got. SC until 1 ST before each marker, CH 3, SK 3 STS, then SC until 1 before the next marker and repeat. When you reach the end, CH 1 and turn. (SC, SK 2 STS, 5 DC in the next ST, SK 2 STS) across, you may need to fudge the last shell. Bind off and weave in ends. Sew buttons to the appropriate side, matching them up with the button holes. Now for the skirt. Start by hemming both top and bottom of your fabric. Then, measure the width of your bodice (mine is 19.5") and minus this number from the width of your fabric (45" - 19.5" = 25.5") then minus 1" for the seam allowance. This is the amount of fabric that needs to be gathered. Now, divide the number you just got (24.5) by the number of places you want to gather your fabric or each of the valleys in between the shells (24.5/7 = 3.5). With right sides together, sew the two sides of your fabric together using a 1/2" seam allowance. Measure and mark, along the top of the skirt, the width of a shell (2.5")then the last number you calculated (3.5"). Baste the gathering widths about 1/4" from the edge, leaving long tails. Gather each of the basted areas. For the lace, cut 2 strips, perpendicular to the salvage edge, 8" wide and one that is 9". Go along one long edge with your fray check and let dry. Sew the 2 8" strips together along one of the short ends. baste along the side that is not fray checked and gather it until it is the same width as the 9" strip. Pin the gathered strip to the 9" strip, 1/2" down from the side that is not fray checked and sew. With right sides together, pin the side short sides of the 9" strip and the 8" strip together and sew with a 1/2" seam allowance. Find the middle of the 9" strip and mark with a pin. Baste along the top of the 9" strip from the seam to the pin, then cut the thread leaving a long tail then baste from the pin back to the seam. With the 8" lace layer facing the inside of the fabric skirt, gather the lace and fit it into the fabric skirt, matching up the pin with the center of the fabric skirt, and pin in place. Sew the lace to the skirt about 1/4" from the top. Button up the bodice, then fit the skirt into the bodice. You may need to adjust your gathers so they match up with the valleys in between the shells. Pin in place, then hand sew the skirt to the bodice being careful not to go all the way through the bodice. I entered this project in the All Free Crochet Stitch and Share. In general, I don't really like eyelash yarn, but I was perusing the yarn isle at Joanns and this purple stuff was on close out for only 97¢, which I couldn't pass up. I figured I could make a little bear or something from it. When I got home, I remembered that I was planning on making character hats for my daughter to play dress up with, so I thought I would make a purple fox. I went through my stash and I didn't have a purple yarn that would match to double up the eyelash, but I did have a full skein of Caron Simply Soft in a peacock blue color. I figured you wouldn't be able to really see the blue, so I got started. After creating the base hat, I thought, this really looks like it should be a peacock, so I looked to Facebook and Google+ for a weigh in. After a few days, it was close, but the fox won out by 2 votes. So, here is a fox hat. (I have enough yarn, I may go back and make a peacock too!) The sizing is a bit big for a child. It fits my head and kind of drowns my toddler, but you can adjust the sizing by using a smaller hook, or take out a row of increases and one of the rows on the length. Or you could skip more stitches when you are adding the band at the bottom. Gauge: 2 1/2 rows x 6 stitches = 2" in double crochet of A & B Size: Small Adult or teen Materials: Sizes I and G Hook (A) 1/2 Skein (or less) Caron Simply Soft in Ocean (I think... It was a peacock blue) (B) 1 1/4 Skein Lion Brand Fun Fur in Dark Violet Fuzzy white worsted weight yarn and basic black worsted weight black for the face and ears Yarn Needle Long Pins Safety Pins Abbreviations: CH = Chain SC = Single Crochet DC = Double Crochet ST = Stitch SK = Skip Stitch SL = Slip Stitch DC2tog = Double Crochet 2 stitches together SC2tog = Single Crochet 2 stitches together Hat: Using the I hook and a strand of A and B, create a magic loop using 2 fingers, CH 2, 11 DC in loop, close loop and place a marker Row 1: 2 DC in second CH, 2DC around Row 2: (2 DC next DC, DC in next DC) around (36 STS) Row 3: (2 DC next DC, DC in next 2 DC) around (48 STS) Row 4: DC around Row 5: (2 DC next DC, DC in next 3 DC) around (60 STS) Leave marker in the next row to make counting rows easier, DC around for 7 rows, then do one row of SC, SL, Bind off and remove marker. Now for the band, like I said previously, if you want it to be a bigger size, then catch every SC on the hat, or you could make it smaller by skipping more SCs on the hat. Using the G Hook and only yarn A, pick up a loop through one of the SC in the last row, CH 5, SC in second CH from the hook, SC 3x Rows: *SK the next SC on the hat, SL in the next SC on the hat, turn with the yarn in back (DON'T CH 1), SC in back loops only, CH 1, SC in back loops only, repeat from * around the hat and bind off, leaving a long enough tail to whip stitch the two ends together. Weave in loose ends. Outer Ear: Using the I hook and a strand of A and B, CH 16, DC in third CH from hook, DC across, CH 2, turn Rows: *SK first ST, DC in next, DC to last two STS, DC2tog, CH2, turn, repeat from * until only three STS remain, SK first ST, DC2tog and bind off Repeat for second ear. Inner Ear: Using the I hook and the fuzzy white yarn, CH 12, DC in third CH from hook, DC across, CH 2, turn Rows: *SK first ST, DC in next, DC to last two STS, DC2tog, CH2, turn, repeat from * until only three STS remain, SK first ST, DC2tog and bind off Repeat for second ear. Face: *As a side note, I tried to leave enough of a tail when I started and at each of the bind offs to sew the face to the hat Using the I hook and the fuzzy white yarn, CH20, 2 SC in second CH from hook, SC to last CH, 2 SC, CH 1, turn Rows 1 - 5: 2 Sc in first SC, SC to last ST, 2 SC in last ST, CH 1, turn (28STS) Row 6: 2 SC in first ST, SC in next 12 STS, CH 1, turn Row 7: SC across, CH 1, turn Rows 8, 10, & 12: 2 SC in first ST, SC in next 13 STS, CH 1, turn Rows 9, 11, & 13: SK first ST, SC across, CH 1, turn Rows 14 - 16: SC in next 14 STS, CH 1, turn Rows 17, 19, 21, 23, & 25: SK first ST, SC to last 2 STS, SC2tog, CH 1, turn Row 18: SC in next 12 STS, CH 1, turn Row 20: SC in next 10 STS, CH 1, turn Row 22: SC in next 8 STS, CH 1, turn Row 24: SC in next 6 STS, CH 1, turn Row 26: SC in next 4 STS, Bind off Pull a loop one SC from the peak just made, SC to last ST, 2SC in last ST, CH 1, turn Row 7: SC across, CH 1, turn Rows 8, 10, & 12: SC in next 13 STS, 2 SC in last ST, CH 1, turn Rows 9, 11, & 13: SC in next 11 STS, SC2tog, CH 1, turn Rows 14 - 16: SC in next 14 STS, CH 1, turn Rows 17, 19, 21, 23, & 25: SK first ST, SC to last 2 STS, SC2tog, CH 1, turn Row 18, 20, 22, 24: SC across, CH 1, turn Row 26: SC across, Bind off Eyes: Using the G hook and the black yarn, CH 10, SC in second CH from the hook, SC across, CH 1, turn Rows 1 - 3: SK first ST, SC to last 2 STS, SC2tog, CH 1, turn Rows 4: SK first ST, SC2tog, bind off, leaving a tail long enough to sew eyes to face Repeat for the second eye Nose: Using the G hook and the black yarn, create a magic loop, 8 SC in the loop, close loop, SL to join Row 1: CH 1, 2 SC around, SL into CH to join, bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew to hat Assemble: Start by placing the face on the hat where you would like it, then pin it to the hat using long pins. Begin at the bottom of the face with the tail from your original chains and begin to whip stitch around the hat. I tied my yarn when I reach a bind off or cast on, then continued with that tail. Place and pin the eyes and nose to the face, then whip stitch in place. Line up the bottom of each inner ear with each outer ear and use the tail of the inner ear to attach, taking care not to go completely through the outer ear. Place the ears about 1" from the side of the face, with one corner following the angle of the eyes and the other corner lined up with the corner of each peak of the face. You will need to curve the ear a bit, which gives it more of a natural look, then safety pins to attach each ear to the hat and use the tail to whip stitch the ears on, making long stitches to prevent the ears from flopping around. Weave in any loose ends. About a month ago, I attended a baby shower and I came up with the following pattern for a little hat to give to the new baby. It was too cute not to share, so I have posted the pattern for sell through Ravelry. If you are not familiar with Ravelry, you are seriously missing out. It is a data base full of all kinds of patterns for pretty much all things knit and crochet. I generally go there first when I decide I am going to knit or crochet something. You can friend me there, if you like. Anyway, the pattern for this hat is pretty easy and the sizing covers from a newborn up to an adult. It is very stretchy so it will last a while despite fast growing children. Materials: * Size 4 (US) Circular Needles * Size 4 (US) Double Point Needles * Cable Needle * Yarn Needle * ½ skein Caron Simply Soft Yarn (Victorian Rose) * Ribbon or flower to adorn Only $4.00 for a PDF download. Since my original post for this hat, I have added length to sizes Toddler – Adult at row 9, which is right after the star stitch band. I also added an extra row of star stitches to sizes Child – Adult. The bottom right photo displays the changes. Over the holidays I started looking for wreaths I could make for my door. I came across a lovely plum colored wreath, which linked me to the Simple Statement Wreath and my search ended. At first I was planning on it being a holiday staple, but I soon changed my mind and felt it needed a permanent place in my home. The major change I made was the edging. I did a ruffle instead of the eyelet surround that the original suggests. I also added some felt flowers and leaves and I used 5 strands of worsted weight yarn in lieu of chuncky. Materials: * 2 Skeins Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Charcoal Grey * 2 Skeins Loops and Threads, Impeccable in True Gray * 1/2 Skein Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool in Dark Chocolate Brown * Size N Crochet Hook * Styrofoam wreath form * White and Green Felt (I felted old sweaters) * Various Buttons (for flower centers) * Glue and Glue Gun * 2" Ribbon (for hanging) Abbreviations: * SL = Slip Stitch * SC = Single Crochet * CH = Chain * DC = Double Crochet Instructions: Pull from each skein of yarn so you will be working with 5 strands. Start by using the method outlined on the tutorial for the Simple Statement Wreath up until the wreath form is covered, then SL in the first stitch. The number of stitches you have needs to be divisible by 3. Push the single crochets toward the back of the wreath as shown in the photo below Ruffle: Round 1: CH1, SC in first stitch, SC around, Sl into 1st CH Round 2: CH1, SC in first stitch,CH3, *skip 2 stitches, SC in next stitch, CH3, repeat from * around, SL in the first CH Round 3: SL into CH3 space, CH2, 7DC in CH3 space, 8DC in all remaining CH3 spaces, SL in CH2, Bind off and weave in ends For the flowers, I found tutorials for all but two of them so below are tutorials for the two I did and a list of the tutorials I found. Poppy from Positively Splendid, I just did the inner most layer. "S" Flower from the Fickle Pickle 8 Petal Flower: Cut 8 circles with a 2" diameter Fold one circle in half and, with the fold facing down, pull a needle and knotted thread through one of the corners Repeat previous step with remaining circles Pull thread once more thorugh all petals, then pull the thread tight to draw the petals close together and tie off Add a button to the center 3 Layer Flower: Cut 6 circles with diameters of 2" and 2.5" (disregard the smaller circles, I was going to do 4 layers and decided not to) Cut 7 circle at 3" Fold one of the 3" circle in half twice and put a pin in the corner of the folds for the center Open up the circle and place a piece of double sided fabric tape to one side Fold another 3" circle in half once and place a piece of double sided fabric tape to one side of the fold and next to the edge then remove the backing of the tape and secure the fold in that spot and attach to the first 3" circle Repeat the previous step with the remaining 3" circles pinwheel-ing them around the original 3" circle Pin the petals in place with a needle and knotted thread Repeat the the previous three steps to create the remaining 2 layers Add a button to the center When my husband and I bought our condo I told him that I really wanted to tile the backsplash in our kitchen. I found out that every May, Contempo Tile has a psycho sale to get rid of discontinued tile and tile from deals that went south. We went last May and found the most beautiful travertine tiles. We walked away with 50 square feet and supplies for installation spending only $80. The only problem is that we do not own a tile saw. So, we contacted a guy my husband works with, Ricky and not only did he let my husband borrow it, but he showed up to help. Below is a picture of the end product, which I must say turned out even better than I had hoped! Anyway, as a thank you to Ricky, I made him an afghan. I really don't like to make blankets because it seems to take forever, but Ricky had mentioned he was looking to get one (his house is REALLY cold). My inspiration for the general design of the blanket came from a bathroom mat by Thomas O'brien. I kept the stripe pattern, but changed the colors to go with Ricky's house, then added a wide binding. The final measurements are 72" x 64", so really I guess it is more of a blanket than an afghan. Originally, I had planned on just knitting the blanket, but it was taking forever, so I ended the madness and attached a fabric binding to get the final size. Materials: * 2-3 Skeins Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Charcoal Gray * 2-3 Skeins Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Fern * 2-3 Skeins Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in Beige * 2-3 Skeins Loops and Threads, Impeccable in True Gray * Size 13 Needles * Blue Courderoy, two strips measuring 76" x 30" each and two strips measuring 44" x 18" each (Prewash before using) * Sewing machine and thread Abbreviations: CG = Charcoal Grey CO = Cast On K = Knit STS = Stitches Gauge: 8 Rows and 5.5 Stitches = 2" in Stockinette Stitch Instructions: * With a double strand of CH and using a long tail cast on, CO 180 STS. Follow stripe pattern knitting every row with a double strand. Bind off and weave in ends. * Fold each fabric strip in half lengthwise and iron (two 15" x 76" strips and two 9" x 44" strips) * Open the fold, then fold up each long side 3" and iron (two 12" x 76" strips and two 6" x 44" strips) Complete the following steps fully with each strip one at a time, it will be MUCH easier. * Pin along the fold and every so often in the middle to secure the binding folds while you attach the bindings to the blanket * Lay the blanket out on the floor, it will have some stretch, start with the short sides and adjust the blanket to match 2" shy of the 6" x 44" strip on each side, then pin with long pins being careful to get through all layers * Take it to the sewing maching and do a straight stitch with a 3/8" seam allowance For the long strips: * Fold over and iron 2" on each of the short sides of the long strips * Roughly, line up the centers of the stip and the blanket and pin from the center to the ends, adjusting the blanket as you go, matching up the edge of the blanket to the fold just made * Tuck the short strips into the 2" fold of the long strip ends * Sew the strip to the blanket * Repeat with remaining strip Finishing: * Sew along the folds/edges of the strips Some of you may remember the tractor hat I posted not too long ago. This is essentially the same hat, with the exception of the color work pattern. This hat is knitted from the bottom up, starting with the ear flaps. For the body of the hat, I start out knitting in the round then switch to the intarsia in the round method for the Tractor Chart (it could be stranded if the intarsia method is too confusing, but make sure to keep the strands loose as the hat WILL NOT be stretchy) and I finish off the hat by knitting in the round. Also, the braid attached to the ear flaps is an 8-stranded square braid. This hat is for a child, 4-12 years old. If you would like a different size, adjust your needles and/or your yard. Print the pattern. Gauge: 7 rows is 1", 5.5 STS is 1" Materials: Size 4 Double Point Needles (DPNs) and Circular Needles 1 skein of Caron Simply Soft in Bone and Chocolate Size E Crochet Hook Yarn Needle Bronco Chart Abbreviations: MC = Main Color (Chocolate) CC = Contrast Color (Bone) CO = Cast On K = Knit M1A = Make 1 Away STS = Stitches PM = Place Marker K2Tog = Knit 2 Together SC = Single Crochet SL = Slip Stitch Ear Flaps: Using the circular needles, with MC, CO 3 STS Row 1: K1, P to 1 before end, K1 Row 2: K1, M1A, K to 1 before end, M1A, K1 Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until there are 33 STS (30 rows total). Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut yarn. Push the ear flap out of the way of the needles and hold on the circular part. For the second ear flap, repeat the same process as for the first, but don't cut the yarn. Hat Body: Turn and K across the 2nd ear flap. Using a Cable CO, loosely CO 27 STS, K across the 1st ear flap. Again, using the Cable CO, loosely CO 3 STS, PM. (96 STS) Being careful not to twist, connect for knitting in the round. Knit 2 rows in MC then start Bronco Chart. Switch to DPNs in the last row of the Bronco Chart. The rest of the hat will be knitted in the CC. Decreases: Round 1: *K10, K2Tog, repeat from * around (88 STS) Round 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: K around Round 3: *K9, K2Tog, repeat from * around (80 STS) Round 5: *K8, K2Tog, repeat from * around (72 STS) Round 7: *K7, K2Tog, repeat from * around (64 STS) Round 9: *K6, K2Tog, repeat from * around (56 STS) Round 11: *K5, K2Tog, repeat from * around (48 STS) Round 12: *K2, K2Tog, K2 repeat from * around (40 STS) Round 13: *K3, K2Tog, repeat from * around (32 STS) Round 14: *K1, K2Tog, K1 repeat from * around (24 STS) Round 15: *K1, K2Tog, repeat from * around (16 STS) Round 16: K2Tog around (8 STS) Cut a 6" tail and using the yarn needle, thread through the remaining STS and pull tight to close up the hole then go through the top of the hat and tie a knot inside of the hat. Weave in loose ends. Finishing: SC around the edge of the hat with MC. Weave in ends. Using CC, loosely SL into the knit stitches around the base of the SCs just made. Weave in ends. Using MC, make 4 long strands for the braids (I usually just do the length between my hands outstretched). Fold in half and using the crochet hook, pull about an inch of the middle of the strands through the middle of the ear flap, then pull the ends through the loop just made. Cut the ends to about 3" past how long you want the braid to go, then do the square braid and tie a knot at the end. Trim up the ends if necessary. |
Hey there! I'm Kristin, aka Kit. Here is just a peek into my crafting mind. I hope you find something to spur your creativity!
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